• Fully circumnavigating a glacier! Thanks to a network of well-maintained trails, tracks, and roads, you can ride and push your bike entirely around the massif that holds the Rutor Glacier.
• Secluded unpaved climbing in a corner of the Alps few come to visit. The Aosta Valley itself is hard to reach, which keeps the villages and backroads quiet and pleasant.
• (Mostly) ridable singletrack from the first peak down to Verconey-Dessus, with spectacular views to the valley below and the mountains on the other side.
• The locals of Valgrisenche village. This is one of those mountain towns where everyone knows each other. Sitting at the bar, having a drink and witnessing life up here is just delightful.
• Hike-a-biking to Col du Mont. This is actually a very enjoyable walk, not too steep, over within a few hours, and surrounded by impeccable scenery.
• Drinking fresh glacier water. You should probably still filter just in case, but the water up here drips straight from the snow up on the peaks.
• Coffee break at Refuge de l’Archeboc. This neatly positioned Refuge is the first sign of life you’ll see on the French side of this loop, after the HAB, where you can eat, drink, and sleep if necessary. Beware, cash only!
• The long climb up to Fort de la Redoute Ruinée. These tracks take you over ski country, up the slopes with expansive views. Out of season, there’s barely a sign of life here.
• Col du Petit Saint-Bernard. A funny mountain pass, for it’s littered with carved statues of the animals that inhabit these mountains, as well as Saint Bernard dogs depicted in their “uniform.”
• Several sections with epic views of Mont Blanc. Note that keeping your eyes on the trail is a little hard sometimes!
• Italian treats. Of course, anywhere on the Italian part of this loop, you’ll find typical delicacies such as cornetti, ice cream, pizza, pasta, etc. In the food section, we also share some local dishes!

When to go

• Like other routes in this area, June to September is your window. In June, Col du Mont can still be covered in snow, making it difficult to summit. The scenery is springlike and colorful. July and August will probably see a fair bit of hiking traffic. September is, as almost everywhere in the European Alps, likely the best time for an adventure.

What bike and gear

• Bring a sturdy hardtail or something with more suspension so that you can ride this loop with vigor and joy. On our scouting trip, Davide rode it all on his gravel bike, so it is possible at the price of more discomfort.
• A water filter comes in very handy on this ride as there are many streams to filter from along the way. This way, you don’t need to carry more than 1-2L of water.

Travel basics & logistics

• How to get to the start: Arriving in Leverogne is easiest by car. For now, in late 2026 and expected to continue through most of 2027, Trenitalia has ongoing construction on the Aosta line and isn’t serving any station beyond Ivrea by train. Buses can be tricky since getting on with a (packed) bicycle always depends on the driver. Once you get to Aosta, you’ll have to cycle the last part.
• This loop crosses Italy and France, but border control is non-existent. The route crosses several roads you can use as an exit. In the case of a mechanical, you may be able to hitchhike to a valley bicycle shop.

Dangers & Annoyances

• Electrical storms and downpours can be a danger up in these mountains, so always prepare accordingly. There are very few wild animals here, though you may run into shepherd dogs. Leftover snow can present a fair challenge on Col du Mont, and you should tread carefully.
• Weather conditions: While you can choose a weather window fairly accurately, this pocket of high mountains has its own microclimates, with frequent afternoon downpours or electrical storms, even at night. Be prepared by bringing (warm) waterproof layers and quality camping gear.
• Steepness / Hike-a-bike: While there are several hike-a-bikes on this loop, and you’ll spend a significant amount of time pushing your bike, it’s never for too long, always with an adequate reward awaiting, and usually not that steep.
• Other remarks: If you’d like to check for snow on Col du Mont ahead of your ride, you can reach out to Alpine guide of Valgrisenche (Guide Alpine della Valgrisenche) by phone: +39 334 9567375 and email: [email protected]

• In the Aosta Valley, camping is allowed above 2,500 meters, a height that you’ll only reach on your second climb, the hike-a-bike track to Col du Mont. Once in France, you may camp anywhere that it is not strictly forbidden. Set up after 7 p.m., or at sunset, break down by sunrise, and always Leave No Trace.
• As for accommodation, there are several marked options along the loop, but in general, every valley passage will offer plenty of options on the standard online lodging platforms.

• Water is plentiful along all of this route, with a fountain (marked on the map) never being too far away, and filtering from glacial streams as backup. I’ve also marked favorite food stops as POIs.
• Local specialties include the famous Fontina cheese, seupa à la Vapelenentse (cabbage, bread, local Fontina cheese simmered in beef stock), carbonade Valdostana (Aosta beef stew), Cogne cream (chocolate, cream, eggs, and rum), and of course, polenta.

Suggested Itinerary

locationLeverogne – Col du Mont

Day 1 (39 km, +2,516 m)

Starting in Leverogne, you’ll immediately head for the first long climb, starting paved until a short and very steep hike-a-bike section after passing a wooden bridge over the river. Then you’ll be climbing further, soon reaching a lovely gravel track leading you to another, slightly longer and more gentle hike-a-bike up to the first summit of the loop. Sweet and pretty rideable singletrack follows, until you find the track that takes you down to Valgrisenche. Between Valgrisenche and Col du Mont lies a lovely gravel track, passing by Lago di Beauregard and taking you more than halfway up the climb. At a small stone bridge, the last push to Col du Mont starts, soon taking you to 2,500 meters. You can wild camp up here, or push on a few more kilometers to Refuge de l’Archeboc to find a bed.

locationCol du Mont – La Thuile

Day 2 (42 km, +1,345 m)

From Col du Mont, or Refuge de l’Archeboc, a descent follows to a short section of main road. Then, the third climb of the loop starts, up to Fort de la Redoute Ruinée, and Col du Petit Saint Bernard. This one’s pretty long, beginning with a short but tough push. Then it gradually widens and becomes ridable to the Fort, from where you’ll descend steeply onto Col du Petit Saint Bernard. Continuing, you’ll be on a beautiful and partly unmarked gravel track, leading you to La Thuile. Here, you can camp for the night at Camping Rutor or find accommodation in town. It’s a lovely mountain village to catch a break.

locationLa Thuile – Leverogne

Day 3 (27 km, +552 m)

Finishing off the loop, a short yet steep five-kilometer climb out of town leads you to the small settlement of Petrosan, where a scenic forest trail descends into the valley of Morgex. After following the river downstream, a mix of dirt and secondary roads carries you back to Leverogne.